RE-808 its a replica of the TR-808

As you can see you also need to do a jumper wire between the solder point marked A on the pixie cpu and pin 10 (!WE pin) of *any* of IC 7,8,9 or 10 (they’re all connected to the same signal)
Please note:
* This is on the back of the 808
* you solder the pins on the cpu on the “wrong“ side
* the jumper wire can be soldered directly as it’s just one wire, I use a pin header and patch cable here mainly during development as I can easily remove the cpu without having to desolder anything
* as the cpu is upside down, make sure you connect the midi wires the correct way!
* as always - pin 1 and 42 is unused and can be left unconnected (pin 1 is the hole with a square pad)

Do not fit the DC jack on the PSU circuit board. Its not used and it is not wired correctly.

use a cable for the jack as shown for example

heres a tip about the installation of the tactile caps:

  credits to a FB User..

for the voice board: 

first install all 1/8watt resistors on bottom of the pcb R1-9 are 1/8w or the switchboard do not fit

use MLCC caps there and no IC socket. for IC1.

when you have a solder frame: install the flat Trannys and ic sockets before you install the other parts

credits by Martin.J.K  - Thank you

install a jumper as shown to get your 808 working as designed

install a 10nF polyester cap or bipolar electrolyte cap at the sync jack or on the pcb

 some help.. found on FB

the 3D printed part is available in my shop https://www.diysynth.de/spezial-re-808-parts/re-808-midi-anschluss-3d-druck.html

or print it myself (Resin preferred) 

just use 2 screws to mount this at the typenumber plate holes at the rear and drill a small for the MIDI cables.

this tool make things easier.

just drop the rotary switch inside and its easy to saw the switch to the exact given length

available in my shop :

https://www.diysynth.de/spezial-re-808-parts/re808-schaltersaegehilfe-3druck-teil.html

for much easier rotary switch assembling:

Background:

we dont need the upper part of the D shaft switches

and we don't need the lower part of the knurled switches.

for the D shaft switches you can bend the tabs at the bottom for removal as close you can - because we dont need the upper part

for the knurled switches you can cut the pcb on bottom to remove the bottom part without bending the tabs, after you have removed the pcb - you can much easier bend the tabs !!!