Stereo 1176D clone

Project

Projecttitel: Stereo 1176D clone

Status: IN PROGRESS

Startdate: 02.03.2023

Duedate: 01.04.2023

Manufacture link:

PCB:

hairball audio 1176 D version - which is the mnats version

http://mnats.net/1176.html

Panel and Case:

https://collectivecases.com/?product=stereo-1176

FINISHES

STEREO 1176 cases will be powder coated black.
The faceplates come in 3 different color options. They are raw aluminum and black with white lettering (UA style), raw aluminum and blue with white lettering (Blue Stripe style), a powder coated (creamy color) with black and white silk screen lke the first option.

MADE IN THE USA, ENCLOSURE DETAILS:

2 rack space height
18 gauge metal cases
Rear Panel XLR, IEC, and Star Ground cutouts
11″ deep
17″ wide case
Vent holes on tops and sides
Clean outside for easy installation in racks
Ships flat for lower shipping cost

ENCLOSURE INCLUDES

1 Faceplate
1 Top & bottom panel
1 Rear panel
2 Side panels

RECOMMENDED COMPONENTS:
Meters – Hairball Audio (8027-WF VU)
XLR’s – Nuetrik D series connectors (part # Neutrik NC3FD-L-1-B & Neutrik NC3MD-L-1-B)
IEC – Schurter 6200.2100 (Mouser Part # 693-6200.2100)
For support look here: (http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=44882.0)
For kits look here: (http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=79)

BOM and Schematic:

1176LN_REVD_V2.2_DOC.pdf

Hairball Audio offer part kits/half kits for a stereo version, you have to add the PCBs too.

ID	Part	add. info	link	price netto	price with all fees

ID	Part	add. info	link	price netto
1	case	case	https://collectivecases.com/?product=stereo-1176	150 USD
2	pcbs	hairball PSU x2		20 USD
3	part kit pcb	2 x Matched Pair of 2N5457 FETs 1 x Dual Primary Toroidal 2X30 30VA Power Transformer 2 x FET Compressor Attack Control 2 x FET Compressor Release Control 2 x FET Compressor Output Control 2 x 8027-WF VU Meter 2 x C-3837-1 Input Transformer 2 x EA-5002 Output Transformer w/ Channel Frame 2 x Bourns 600Ω T-Pad Attenuator w/ PCB 1 x Stereo Link Kit	https://www.hairballaudio.com/catalog/parts-store/old-style-fetrack/stereo-fet-compressor-rev-ad-bundle	475USD
4	XLR	XLR’s – Nuetrik D series connectors (part # Neutrik NC3FD-L-1-B & Neutrik NC3MD-L-1-B) 2 of each !!!
5	IEC power inlet	IEC – Schurter 6200.2100 (Mouser Part # 693-6200.2100)	look for better version with filter
6	PSU PCB	PSU pcb from hairball	only one needed !! - check capacitor sizes RM7.5mm	10USD
7	link switch	SPST switch of your choice
8	Powerswitch	DPST 12mm diameter	https://www.voelkner.de/products/42017/APEM-5646MA-Kippschalter-250-V-AC-3A-2-x-Ein-Ein-rastend-1St..html	12euro
9	case part	you need distance spacer 28x 5mm-10mm height M3 for the psu you need 4 x 5mm height spacer M3
10	case part	4x M4 screws 15-20mm lenght for the output transformer mounting
11	screws	you need at minimum 28mm flat M3 screws - lenght 6mm to mount the spacer from bottom
12	screws	a lot of M3 screws and washers, nuts for thge pcb mounting and XLR connectors
13	Rotary switches	2x 4pole 3positions 2x 2Pole 6 positions (change the locker to 5)	lorlin or C&K
14	pcb parts	Solder nails and connectors 1mm diameter for the rotarty switch pcbs and main pcbs
15	cable	powercable 1.5mm2, shielded cable 2 and 3 pole, and few meters 0.5mm2 for interconnection between pcbs
16	headers	I used MTA and molex connections as shown in my pictures
17	jewel lamp	I used from TME:	AE-C027500NAH from tme.eu

Buildinfos:

Building The DIY 1176LN Revision D.pdf

The 1176 doesn't have a true bypass, just a GR off. The GR off is usually placed as a switch on the attack pot.

or use : True Bypass Module – Obsoletetechnology → LED can be powered by a 3PDT switch

or this

https://honeybadgeraudio.com/shop/diy/other-boards/link-controller/

BOM

Schemata:

Wiring:

Wiring example

1176LN-module_connection.pdf

link switch guide

Stereo_Link_Wiring_Guide.pdf

176 manual - HQ - draft edition.pdf

Wiring the 1176LN Clone - Rotary Version.pdf. → for instructions of the wiring - pots and switch

Nmats:

I've included potentiometer assignments too that aren't on the silkscreen layer of the boards: ccw=counter-clockwise - the contact where the wiper comes to rest if the shaft is turned all the way to the left when the pot is viewed from the front; wiper=the middle contact; cw=clockwise - the contact where the wiper comes to rest if the shaft is turned all the way to the right. If you have any doubt, turn the shaft all the way to the end stop and measure the resistance from the middle terminal to each of the other lugs. The one that shows the lowest resistance is the one where the wiper is closest to. It should read very close to zero ohms.

Out Board